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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.